An Interview with Amy Sky of Hidden Spectrum

August 25th, 2010 | Published in Designers

Interview by Alexia Anastasiou. Photos provided by Hidden Spectrum. Click here for full image version.

Amy Sky’s name is as pretty and magical as her clothing line, Hidden Spectrum. Amy began her line in 2008 and presented her first collection, entitled Ampersand, for the F/W 2009 season.

A conscientious designer, she is concerned with ethical production values and the quality of materials. With a point-of-view that stretches beyond fashion, her clothes can be considered beautiful investment pieces with meaning. And just like the designer herself, they are cool, classic and modern. Amy has finally given us ethical clothing you will want on your body, and you’ll look as good as you feel wearing it.

Find out more from her here in an exclusive interview with String Magazine.

Have you always had an interest in fashion?

Not in terms of following designers and the mainstream fashion world. If anything, some interests would be misfit clothiers such as Leigh Bowery, abstract sculpture, or traditional Moroccan robes–that sort of cultural connection. Visual culture is what holds my interest; thrifting, cast-offs, and vintage clothing were always of some fascination to me.

Now I know a little more about the history of fashion, and appreciate fashion designers of the past, like Balenciaga and Ossie Clark, but I’m just as likely to be interested in the work of an artist, like André Breton! And I admire current designers like Henrik Vibskov, Cosmic Wonder [Yukinori Maeda] and Bernhard Willhelm.

How did you begin designing clothes?

After finishing college I was mostly concerned with art-making, drawing and some crafts. My introduction to sewing was through altering found clothing. I was approached by a costume designer one day, because of what I was wearing, and he taught me all about industrial sewing. This was Ahmad Tabrizi, a master of garmentry. From there on I found clothing construction a total attraction and I just wanted to learn more.

Working for Mono and Dace also taught me a great deal about garment quality and innovation and about how to operate in the industry.

What inspired you to start Hidden Spectrum?

I like making and creating things with other people. The idea behind Hidden Spectrum was to create an umbrella under which multiple genres of work could happen; basically a vehicle to involve art, clothing, and design in one operation. By making wearable, sellable objects I can also fund the more esoteric, abstract projects.

How do you start each new collection? Where does your inspiration come from?

Visual inspiration is collected from all over: reading things like sci-fi novels, Harper’s, Cabinet magazine and watching films are good triggers for me. I love scientific and historical trivia, old illustrations and reproductions of art; so I keep a file of pictures and articles. I also gather ideas from looking at library books when I’m about to start anew. And of course, the internet!

Fall 2010 was inspired by work clothes, the hardest wearing and muckiest of vintage garments. Spring 2011 seems to be about magic geometry, which is all I can say right now!

Through Hidden Spectrum, you explore art forms other than fashion. How important are these to you? What are the benefits to you of collaborating with other artists?

It’s really important to me, although it’s been hard to maintain those kind of relationships in the current economy… a lot of friends returned to school, moved abroad, or went AWOL trying to make ends meet financially. I just hope more optimism surrounds co-projects soon. There is more to be had when shared! For me being inspired comes from interaction rather than self-reflection, so collab-ing is like fresh water for the feast.

How do you cater to the smart, eco-conscious, artistic Vancouver consumer?

I’m not particularly trying to cater to anyone, although financially that may be considered a bad decision! I make what is interesting to me, and think that will speak to the people out there who have a similar outlook and concerns. In terms of ecology and ethics, waste reduction and fair labour practices will always be a major concern for me personally, so I make decisions informed by that. But it won’t be a part of our marketing strategies.

What do you see for Hidden Spectrum 3 to 5 years from now?

Practically speaking, being in more stores globally. Some hints of that coming up in Japan, where there are some like-minds. I’d like Hidden Spectrum to be a part of that dialogue.

In terms of the “fantasy”: building dome towers, working on joint shows with artists I like… Visiting a few faraway places to collab!

What do you think about the Vancouver fashion scene?

I feel outside of it somehow. But I know some lovely people here and like living here.

Where do you find your fabrics?

Fabric suppliers, through fabric shows in Los Angeles & New York. European and Japanese textiles mostly. Recently I’ve bought cotton flannel from Manitoba, linen from Spain and a jacquard cotton from Italy! I seek interesting, unique, high-quality fabrics.

What should we know about your line?

Hmm. If you’re into it I’m very glad. If you want to invite us to collaborate on a satin house or a patchwork idea, please do.

What do you hope to communicate with your concept ideas and fashion?

Projects will carry their own message, whether absurd or profound–likely the first. With clothing, I suppose a new vitality and interest in dressing yourself for life. Experiment with a new mix-up!

What would you like to see people wearing this fall in Vancouver?

Autumn leaves & bow ties.

For more information, check out Hidden Spectrum at www.hiddenspectrum.com

Published in Designers