Biljana, Belgrade Bijoutière

July 29th, 2008 | Published in Fashion Lovers, International

Words and All Photos by Leanne

(Leanne, our international correspondent, has traveled far and wide to discover one truly skilled jewellery designer. Where has she found this gem? In a little place few know much about: Belgrade, Serbia. Here lies her account of their most whimsical meeting.–Ed.)

At the moment, I am unsure whether I am in an artist’s studio or floating wistfully on a carousel. No, I am definitely in a studio, one belonging to a charming jewellery designer by the name of Biljana Polovina Steljić. Her space is brightened only by the late afternoon sun and coloured with cotton candy hues of pink and blue. There are towers painted right onto the walls reminding guests of the images we abandoned in childhood, the ones we traded for the moody sketches of teenage angst. Yeah, you know the ones.

Unapologetically, Biljana nods, “I like fairytales.” Subjects of her art include horses and swans to name a few. One would almost expect a long braid of silky hair to tumble out of the tower in the corner of the room, ready for a prince to use as a climbing instrument. It wouldn’t be Biljana’s, of course. Her hair is in a neat bob, evoking a strong resemblance to our heroine of heroines: Amélie. Biljana’s heard that one before. When asked if she sees herself in the Audrey Tatou character, she states, “No. She’s cute and pleasant, but not exactly me.” I beg to differ and she desists, adding that she does agree with Amélie’s love of the simple things in life. “I like to simplify everything, so yes, I enjoy small pleasures.”

This appreciation of niceties lends itself to be manifested in Biljana’s work. She is a sculptor first, jewellery maker second, and art lover above all. Through years of education, she received a master’s degree from the University of Arts in Belgrade with a specialization in sculpture. Her background is apparent in her jewellery. A collection of rigid twisted metal is displayed before me. Although there is an absence of dangly charms and sparkly stones often associated with feminine jewellery, grace is retained in her pieces through simplicity.

Taking my breath away are Biljana’s necklaces and tiaras. Modest green and blue stones set in swirls of copper make for a dramatic impact. The stones grasp and contain the sunlight, projecting little orbs of light across the model’s chest like novas. The lighthearted twirls of metal could almost map a trail of a lover’s kisses across the clavicle, wrapping gently and seductively just behind the shoulder. It’s a wonder how Biljana manages to form her pieces so perfectly against the body.

The answer lies once again in her training. Her jewellery is not exactly mere accessory; it is nothing short of wearable sculpture. “You can take off the items and display them around the house,” she says. Certainly, she has some of her fish pendants hanging like dreamcatchers by the window.

As bold as her pieces are, they are easily integrated into any wardrobe. Biljana’s jewellery is mostly coveted by young women who enjoy the unique. “Many women purchase items for events such as New Year’s or graduation parties.” She tells of a chemist who just so happened upon Biljana’s studio during a stroll through the neighbourhood. The science lady stepped in—and stepped out a long while later with some necklaces and bracelets in hand. While inside, the chemist revealed she had an artistic side and loved to draw. Biljana explains, “Most of all, it’s people with artistic souls who are drawn to my work.”

If you’re ever in Serbia following your own artistic soul, you can find Biljana’s work exhibited in Belgrade’s Fontana Galerija or along Knez Milhailova Street, the city’s epicentre of fashion. Along this pedestrian-only strip is a parade of local boutiques, high-end shops, and artisan kiosks.

The Belgrade fashion scene is no doubt eclectic. Geographically, Serbia is literally at the crossroads of East and West. Situated at the easternmost edge of Europe (aside from Russia) and just a bit west of the Middle East, Serbia is (and has been for centuries) home to many varieties of people. Countless wars and the more recent breakup of Yugoslavia have changed the political and cultural landscape of the country. Today, Serbia is slowly becoming a powerhouse of art and fashion in its own right. While the standard of living is lower than that of Canada, an interest in the arts is providing a bit of an economic boost, particularly for the fashion and tourism industries. “In the past, people have been less willing to spend on art and fashion. Money would be put towards groceries instead of adornment,” explains Biljana, “but more and more, people are embracing art.” Art and fashion schools are multiplying and providing new programs for those looking to expand their creativity.

Belgrade plays host to fashion weeks semi-annually, holding shows that draw visitors from around Europe every October and April. Belgrade Fashion Week is the bread and butter of upcoming domestic designers and a valuable platform for international designers looking to include Serbia as a market. Since its inception in 1996, the event has catapulted to success, bringing Belgrade’s fashion scene with it. Sound like a little city we know and love, perhaps?

“Now Belgrade is an interesting mix of European and North American fashion influence,” states Biljana. “The art and fashion scene has come a long way.”

As for her, she’s just going to continue doing what she loves. “I just make things that please me, that reflect the world around me, I guess. And if other people are interested in my work, then it’s an added bonus.” Her Vancouverite relatives have been begging her to show some of her pieces in BC, where they are certain Westcoasters will fall in love with the dreamy jewellery. “For now, the only possibility would be to exhibit them on the Internet. But in the future somehow I’ll get them to Vancouver.”

We’ll be waiting, Biljana. Who wouldn’t want to put on one of her whimsical tiaras, made with all the love of someone who just so absolutely loves capturing the pleasantries of life? As one can easily see from this artistic soul, you can’t spell “heart” without “art”.

Published in Fashion Lovers, International